If you are lucky, in your lifetime you will experience the hush of one of natures holy places at least once in your lifetime. This is one of those places. As we pulled to a stop the only sound for a few moments was the ticking of a cooling engine, settling of dust and pebbles, and our own breath. Then the light mist in the air seemed to settle into the cracks of our tires and engine compartment, eating up the sound and bringing a loud silence. Our ears felt hot as they searched for a freeway or horn, laughing child or beeping crosswalk. It was a holy crescendo like a Vivaldi piece rising in beauty. Then a stick breaks and something scurries in the underbrush. The spell was broken and we each took a deep breath, wondering how long we had held it. This was the place. The drive was worth it.
Location: From Hungry Horse Montana Head east on Hwy 2 E toward Alpha Rd, 0.4 mi Turn right onto NF-895/West Side Rd, 8.0 mi Slight left to stay on NF-895/West Side Rd, 25.6 mi Turn right onto NF-9796, 1.0 mi Continue straight onto NF-897, 0.5 mi
Handkerchief Lake Montana 59911
On the 30 or so mile journey from Hungry Horse we passed a historic dam over five hundred feet high, which holds Hungry Horse Reservoir, another favorite of our family. There are eagle nests, huckleberries, blueberries, and not so good berries (haha - use a field guide or app and great caution before wild crafting or gathering for the purpose of food), boat docks, camp grounds, day use sites...and then less and less. The road narrows and darkens with trees. It rises up so the 50 mile long reservoir becomes a green blue gem peeking through the trees, far away like an echo. The road becomes dirt and the occasional giant boulder sits there, a warning of the cliffs above. There are deep pot holes and really bumpy sections. The deer stand in the road wondering what you are. BEEP! They startle away flitting back and forth confused. The flowers grow right up to the road. There are several waterfalls and creeks. Finally the last turn. Why are we leaving Hungry Horse Reservoir again?
Ahh yes, the chamber music of the wilds lives here. People are like Gods or a mythical creature, rare and unrecognized. There are only three back country camp sites here defined by nothing more than a pull off from the road. There is a little overgrown trail that dips out of site through wild flowers and high reaching evergreens. Below there is a little concrete table, and further down a tent pad. About a quarter mile from the vehicle is a beach and the lake.
A creek flows right through this lake and it is surrounded by mountains, at one side they are the entrance to the jewel basin beyond. There are giant trees that have fallen right into the water. One can see the very tip of the trees because the water is so clear. My son actually walked on the fallen tree far out into the lake. At certain times the lake was flitting with bugs while at others it was like glass and one could bath in those clear waters without fear of ever being seen, or bothered by a bug.
It is worth honorable mention to say this is home to my favorite outhouse. The cutest vault toilet rests on the hill just off the road. There are a few spiders but all in all it is tidy and solid. Nice to know there is a structure somewhere when we are surrounded by wilds on all sides.
A Moose bugled somewhere near while we cooked our dinner. I tried to make the sound and did a pretty good job, since there was another answering call from further away. In the last hour we had secured our site with our vintage pop up Skamper. We knew we were going into bear country and we came prepared with guns and spray, and four walls in which to sleep. I have to admit it was I who was most afraid of bears, but we have always been safe so I don't feel bad about that. Soon, lanterns were lit and our tummies were full, and the darkness of night had fallen.
We played cards and drank cocoa. I felt my heart beat harder as I thought about every sound I heard. My husband laughed a little at me, knowing I was a big chicken and fully prepared to protect us all. Soon we all drifted to sleep. In the night something large was outside the window. We kept very still and listened. I quickly fell asleep as I strained to listen, and morning came softly with a creeping light.
We slept in. So much for early fishing. Being alert that night brought a deeper sleep with the dawn. Eventually we cooked a super breakfast which my husband fondly creates with basically every breakfast meat, potato, cheese, bell pepper, and egg ...perhaps gravy too....that he can find.
Our dogs were always kept on a leash, since bears like to chase dogs sometimes. They loved every smell and path. At night they slept better than we did. We were always careful to secure their food too, since bears like a scooby snack from time to time.
The rating of Handkerchief Lake is a 5 star back country rating for sure. The reason for this rating is: While remote it is drive-able without a four wheeler. The remote factor adds to the mystery and charm. The bathroom is right out of a story book - like Johnny Appleseed mighta made it hisself (slang intended). The lake is beautiful, clear and clean. The campsites are between your vehicle and the lake, and they are very unique. There is tons of wildlife, but we were never in immanent danger (always use caution in the wilds and bear country).
There are some important things to note before you go which I will list now.
OVERNIGHT TIPS:
I prefer a camper this far into bear country. There is no rangers and this is not a park. Having 4 walls is a comfort and will help you sleep better. If you want to tent camp park your vehicle close to the door of your tent and leave it unlocked so you can get in quickly if needed. Always have bear spray with you to deter any curious friends.
Leave a light on through the night. It gets very dark here if there is no moon. Be ready to enjoy a million stars over your head.
Storms can occur quick and without warning. Bring a tarp and keep an eye on the weather when planning your trip.
Tie your food high up in a tree and/or keep a large air tight ice chest in your vehicle.
Bring an emergency preparedness kit. I like to keep important survival gear with me on all my trips and always recommend the same for others. While adventure is fun you must always be prepared.
SURVIVAL GEAR
Gas Can Filled
Sharp Strong Pocket Knife
Fishing Pole and tackle.
Large Caliber Handgun/Ammo (always be aware of and follow local laws regarding weapons)
First Aid Kit
Axe
Non-perishable Food like trail mix, oatmeal, nuts for an emergency situation.
Flashlight and extra batteries.
Solar Cell Charging Station
Extra blankets. I carry a zero degree sleeping bag.
Proper shoes for a long walk out if it came to that.
A Paper Printed Map. There is no signal here.
Rope
Bug Spray (I have never needed it here, but it is a good idea to have just in case.)
Extra Food for your Pets
Multi Tool
Extra medication for those in your group who depend on it, like insulin or blood pressure meds.
Whistle
Duct Tape
Rain Gear
Warm Coat, Socks, Gloves
Even if something happens, keep your head. Most of the time when people get hurt or die in the woods it is from panic or a easily avoidable mistake. Stay calm. Assess the situation and your resources. Then make decisions. Keep your sense of humor and morale high.
The reason I write these blogs is to give informed data. That means make sure you are informed when you decide where to go in the wilds. Use my blogs and local alerts and travel information to make good judgement calls. Something to think about when going to remote places like Handkerchief Lake is the following: You are hours from cell service or a hospital. That means when you decide on activities consider this. Maybe do not play with throwing knives or randomly jump over chasms. If you are injured you or your party is responsible for stopping the bleeding, securing the wound, and getting help or to a hospital. Use wisdom, pause and think, and you will most often be just fine. There are enough dangers in the woods without taking unnecessary risks. Then, you too will have a wonderful memory, like we do, of the magical places far away.
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